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Science

Hypoallergenic formulas. Effective active ingredients

2017-02-03 Print

Glycerine
It Is an alcohol present in the body and which is involved in the production of lipids. Glycerine of plant origin is used in CEBELIA products. It is a viscous, odourless and colourless, non toxic, sweet liquid. It is also a by-product of saponification and is miscible with water. Glycerine is used as a lubricant and an emollient which loosens and softens tissues. Glycerine is one of the oldest moisturizing agents in cosmetics as it prevents the evaporation of water by retaining the skin’s moisturizing substances or cosmetic products, and therefore maintains and regulates the moisturization of the outer layer of the epidermis.

Sweet almond oil
It contains 10% saturated fatty acids (saturated fatty acids are responsible for the firmness of the membranes and therefore the firmness of the skin), as well as several unsaturated fatty acids of which monounsaturated and polyunsaturated or essential (omega 3 & 6: our body cannot synthesize them). The latter are fatty acids that are essential for the correct moisturization of the skin, its elasticity, and good communication between cells. It also plays a role of barrier. Finally, the latter constituent is unsaponifiable (from 0.3 to 0.6%). Sweet almond oil is used for its various effects. Firstly for its emollient, moisturizing and strengthening functions as it forms a protective layer on the surface of the skin promoting water retention and increasing the lipid concentration. It also acts on the precursors of inflammation mediators. Furthermore, sweet almond oil contains vitamin F (linoleic acid), which is involved in the hyperkeratinisation process through the normalisation of the epidermal fat barrier. It is also reputed for nail care as vitamin A solidifies the nails and vitamin B participates in new growth.

Phytosqualane
It is a very pure plant squalane that comes from the squalane of unsaponifiable olive oil. It is a clear, fluid oil which is one of the main components of human sebum and the hydrolipidic film. Phytosqualane is a poly-functional product, with major penetration properties thanks to its natural affinity with the skin. It stops water from evaporating and penetrates the corneal layer to restore the skin's suppleness. It is soft, silky, not greasy and totally innocuous making it an essential raw material for quality cosmetic emulsions.

Linden blossom extract
The flowers are used as they contain a softening and soothing mucilage. Distilled water (linden hydrolate), enables the soluble molecules of the essential oil to be preserved. This colourless water conserves the characteristic odour of linden. The hydrolate has the same properties as the essential oil but is gentler. Farnesol, active extract of linden blossom extract is renowned for its calming and soothing properties. Linden softens, calms and relaxes the skin. It can be found in a wide variety of care products, due to its innocuousness, it causes no adverse effects.

Bisabolol
It constitutes 17% of German camomile essential oil and it is one of the main substances responsible for the anti-inflammatory activity of camomile. Bisabolol is harmless and ideal for sensitive skin. The natural product, selected by CEBELIA, is twice as effective as the synthetic product. Camomile oil is excellent for the treatment of various skin problems thanks to its healing, anti-allergic, anti-inflammatory and antiseptic properties.

Ribes Nigrum: Blackcurrant
Blackcurrant (anti-hematoma and anti-oedema) is a berry extract, which contains flavonoids, vitamin C as well as tannins (anthocyanins). Vitamin E is also present in blackcurrant. It is used for its various properties, notably its vasculoprotective activity as it increases the resistance of the capillaries (ecchymosis and petechia), but also its phlebotonic activity, which promotes skin microcirculation. It thus protects the blood vessels and promotes blood flow. Vitamin C and E have anti-oxidant properties, which enable them to fight free radicals, cell degeneration processes and inflammatory phenomena.

AescinIt is an active substance from horse chestnut (anti-oedema), native to the Balkans. It is extracted from the whole grain and possesses numerous properties. It preserves the permeability and the elasticity of the venous wall, prevents symptoms of venous insufficiency (pain, swelling, heavy legs and phlebitis...) and reduces inflammation responsible for the disorders, with a high degree of tolerance. 

It is used in different therapeutic domains such as orthopaedic surgery, gynaecology and obstetrics, otorhinolaryngology, dermatology and in cases of cerebral oedemas.

Allantoin
It is extracted from the root of comfrey (plant origin) or is derived from animal uric acid (animal origin). 

CEBELIA uses allantoin of synthetic origin in its products, as the natural ingredients do not present any particular advantages in comparison with the synthetic ingredients. In fact, the root of comfrey is used as it is rich in allantoin (0.5 and 2%), in mucilage, in fructosanes (0.3%) and in pyrrolizidine derivatives. This substance has emollient and softening properties and is recommended for fragile or very damaged skin. Furthermore, allantoin stimulates cell multiplication and accelerates healing. Acting as a bacterial inhibitor, it slows the growth of bacteria until they are destroyed. It is therefore used for its healing, softening and anti-irritant properties.

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